Taranto

Taranto is a city of dramatic contrasts, a place where a glorious ancient past collides with a challenging industrial present. It is a city with two souls: the “City of the Two Seas” and the “City of Steel.”

Here is a comprehensive overview of Taranto.

1. The Identity of Taranto: A Tale of Two Cities

Taranto’s identity is split between its historical significance and its modern industrial reality.

• “Spartan Taranto” (Taranto Spartana): Founded by Spartan colonists in 706 BC as Tarás, it became one of the most powerful and wealthy cities of Magna Graecia (Greater Greece). Its ancient inhabitants were famous for their wealth, purple dye, and powerful navy.

• The “City of the Two Seas” (Città dei Due Mari): Taranto is uniquely situated on a small peninsula between two bodies of water: the Mar Grande (Big Sea) and the Mar Piccolo (Little Sea). The Mar Piccolo is a vast, shallow inland sea renowned for its mussel farms.

• The “City of Steel” (Città dell’Acciaio): In the 20th century, Taranto became the site of one of Europe’s largest steel plants, the ILVA (now ArcelorMittal). This brought employment but also severe environmental pollution, casting a long shadow over the city and creating a major social and economic conflict between industry and public health.

2. Major Attractions: Ancient Glory and a Unique Seaside

Taranto’s attractions reflect its layered history, from ancient Greece to the challenges of the modern era.

The Ancient “Città Vecchia” (Old City):

• The Aragonese Castle (Castello Aragonese): A massive and imposing fortress guarding the bridge between the old and new cities. Originally built by the Byzantines and expanded by the Aragonese, it is now used by the Italian Navy but offers guided tours.

• The National Archaeological Museum (MARN): This is one of the most important museums in Italy for Magna Graecia. Its collection is stunning, featuring the famous “Ori di Taranto” (Gold of Taranto)—an exquisite collection of gold jewelry and artifacts from the 4th century BC that testify to the city’s ancient wealth. The museum also has a remarkable collection of Greek terracotta figurines.

• The Doric Columns: In the heart of the old city, two solitary Doric columns are all that remain of a magnificent Greek temple, a poignant reminder of the city’s ancient grandeur.

The “Città Nuova” (New City) & The Seas:

• The Swing Bridge (Ponte Girevole): The iconic bridge that connects the old island city to the new mainland. Its opening to allow ships to pass is a spectacle, especially at night when it’s illuminated.

• The Waterfront (Lungomare): The new city boasts a beautiful seafront promenade with views of the Mar Grande, the battleships of the Italian Navy, and the old city.

• The Mar Piccolo: This inner sea is the city’s natural wonder, famous for its mussel farms (cozze). The unique mixture of fresh and saltwater gives Taranto’s mussels a distinctive and prized flavor.

3. The Tarantine Lifestyle & Cuisine

Life in Taranto is deeply connected to the sea, both for its bounty and its industrial challenges.

• Food: A Celebration of the Sea: The cuisine is dominated by incredibly fresh seafood.

  • Cozze alla Tarantina (Mussels Taranto-style): The iconic dish. Mussels are cooked in a simple, flavorful sauce of tomato, garlic, parsley, and peperoncino.

  • Orecchiette con le Cozze: The classic Apulian pasta combined with the local mussels.

  • A Variety of Seafood: From sea urchins (ricci) to oysters (ostriche), the seafood is the star.

• The “Pizzica”: This is the traditional, frenetic, and passionate Salento music and dance, part of the larger Tarantella tradition. It was historically associated with the ritual healing of tarantula bites.

• A City in Conflict: The presence of the massive steel plant is unavoidable. The ongoing environmental and health crisis is a central part of the city’s modern identity and a topic of intense local debate.

4. Practical Tips for Visiting

• Best Time to Go: Spring (April-June) and Autumn (September-October) are ideal, with pleasant weather for exploring. Summers can be very hot.

• Getting Around: The old city and the main new city center are walkable. The city has a local bus system. The train station is located in the new city.

• Vigilance: The old city (Città Vecchia) can feel deserted and somewhat neglected, especially at night. It’s advisable to be aware of your surroundings.

• Day Trips: Taranto is a gateway to the Salento peninsula and the Ionian coast.

  • Matera: The breathtaking “Sassi” cave city, a UNESCO site, is about an hour’s drive away.

  • Lecce: The “Florence of the Baroque,” with its stunning architecture, is less than an hour away by train.

  • The Salento Coast: Beautiful beaches and crystal-clear water are found south of the city.

In a Nutshell

Taranto is a city of profound contrasts. It offers world-class archaeological treasures that speak to its glorious past as a Spartan colony, a unique seaside setting with a vibrant fishing culture, and the complex, often difficult reality of a 20th-century industrial city. It is not a polished tourist destination but a raw, authentic, and historically rich place that provides a deep and thought-provoking look into the many layers of Southern Italy.