Messina

Messina is the third-largest city in Sicily, a crucial gateway to the island with a dramatic and tragic history. It often serves as a transit point for travelers arriving by ferry from the Italian mainland, but it holds its own unique stories and sights for those who choose to stop and explore.

Here is a comprehensive overview of Messina.

1. The Identity of Messina: The Resilient Gateway

Messina’s character is defined by its strategic location and its incredible resilience in the face of repeated natural disasters.

• Sicily’s Gateway: Situated on the northeastern tip of the island, just a narrow strait (the Strait of Messina) away from Calabria on the mainland, it has been a vital port for millennia. It’s the first (or last) sight of Sicily for millions of travelers.

• The City of Two Catastrophes: Modern Messina is largely a 20th-century city because it was almost completely destroyed twice:

  1. The 1908 Earthquake and Tsunami: This was one of the most destructive earthquakes in European history, leveling the city and killing tens of thousands. The city was rebuilt in a modern, grid-like pattern.

  2. Heavy Bombing in WWII: The city was again severely damaged during the war due to its strategic importance.

• A City of Reconstruction: Because of this, Messina lacks the vast, intact medieval core of cities like Palermo or Catania. Its charm is in its monumental rebuild, its long boulevards, and its spectacular setting between the sea and the Peloritani mountains.

2. Major Attractions: A Modern City with Ancient Roots

While much was lost, Messina has carefully reconstructed some of its most important monuments and boasts a beautiful, bustling port area.

The Key Sights:

• The Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) and its Bell Tower: The heart of the city.

  • The Duomo: A Norman cathedral originally built in the 12th century, painstakingly rebuilt after 1908. Its facade is a magnificent example of Sicilian Gothic and Romanesque styles.

  • The Astronomical Clock Tower (Campanile): This is Messina’s world-famous attraction. Built in 1933, it is the largest and most complex astronomical clock in the world. Every day at noon, it puts on a spectacular 12-minute mechanical show. Lions roar, a rooster crows, and gilded statues (representing scenes from the city’s civil and religious history) move to music. It’s a must-see event.

• The Orion Fountain (Fontana di Orione): Located in Piazza Duomo next to the cathedral, this beautiful 16th-century Renaissance fountain by Giovanni Angelo Montorsoli celebrates the city’s first aqueduct.

• The Neptune Fountain (Fontana del Nettuno): Another work by Montorsoli, located by the harbor, depicting the god Neptune calming the waters of the Strait, symbolizing Messina’s power over the sea.

• Regional Museum (Museo Regionale): This excellent museum houses the original artworks that survived the 1908 earthquake, including two magnificent paintings by the Renaissance master Caravaggio, which he created during his short stay in the city.

The Setting:

• The Strait of Messina: The view across the water to the mainland is a defining feature. You can take a short ferry ride to the Calabrian town of Villa San Giovanni for the experience.

• The Madonna della Lettera: At the tip of the harbor’s sickle-shaped breakwater stands a golden statue of the Madonna, blessing the city and those arriving by sea.

3. The Messinese Lifestyle & Cuisine

Life in Messina revolves around its port and its dramatic history.

• Food: The cuisine is heavily influenced by the sea and the nearby mountains.

  • Pescestocco alla Messinese: The signature dish. It’s stockfish (air-dried cod) cooked in a rich sauce with tomatoes, potatoes, olives, and capers.

  • Pasta ‘ncaciata: A baked pasta dish with a rich meat sauce, salami, hard-boiled eggs, and caciocavallo cheese.

  • Fritto Misto: A mixed fry of fresh seafood from the strait.

  • Granita: Like in Catania, granita (especially almond or coffee) with a brioche is a classic breakfast.

• The “Vara”: On August 15th, the city holds the “Procession of the Vara,” a massive 14-meter-high gilded chariot dedicated to the Virgin Mary, pulled by thousands of devotees through the streets. It’s a spectacular and deeply felt tradition.

4. Practical Tips for Visiting

• Best Time to Go: Spring (April-June) and Autumn (September-October) offer pleasant weather. The Feast of the Assumption on August 15th is a major event if you want to experience the festival.

• Getting Around: The city center is flat and easily walkable. The main attractions are concentrated around the Cathedral and the harbor. There is also a tram line that connects the city.

• As a Transit Hub: Most people encounter Messina as they pass through. The train station is a major hub where ferry trains from the mainland arrive and depart for the rest of Sicily.

• Day Trips: Messina is a great base for exploring northeastern Sicily.

  • Taormina: The stunning hilltop town with its Greek Theatre is about a 45-minute train ride south.

  • The Aeolian Islands: The volcanic islands (Lipari, Vulcano, Stromboli) are easily accessible via hydrofoils from the port of Messina. This is a major draw.

  • Capo Peloro: The northernmost point of Sicily, with a lighthouse and lakes, offering beautiful nature and views of the strait.

In a Nutshell

Messina is a city of resilience and rebirth. It may not have the pristine ancient core of other Sicilian cities, but it offers a powerful lesson in history, a unique mechanical marvel in its clock tower, and the authentic atmosphere of a working port city that is the true gateway to Sicily. It’s a city worth spending a day in to see the noon clock spectacle, visit the museum, and feel the pulse of the strait before heading to the more famous destinations nearby.